Q: How many applications are in your program?

A: (Cool Season climate): There are 6 applications in a season

Q: How far apart are the applications?

A: Applications are typically 6-8 weeks apart.

Q: Do you notify in advance of each application?

A: Yes. We’ll notify you a day or two in advance of each application (Some companies choose to not notify in advance of applications, this is a very common complaint from customers.

Q: What kind of guarantee do you offer?

A: We offer a satisfaction guarantee which includes free service calls to your property for issues with weeds in-between treatments. If a part of the lawn were to show signs of discoloration, we will come out to inspect and diagnose any issues with the lawn free of charge. Service call requests must be made within 21 days of treatments, after 21 days we will expedite the next standard application. This is due to the risk of burning your lawn if we apply weed control to your property within too short of a timeframe, and to ensure we don’t cause any problems or burn your lawn.

Q: Do you apply crabgrass pre-emergent control?

A: Yes, We apply a crabgrass pre-emergent control. It will prevent up to 90% of crabgrass in your lawn.

Q: Why did I get crabgrass when you applied a pre-emergent crabgrass control to my lawn?

A: At best, crabgrass pre-emergent controls will prevent 90% of crabgrass, some will inevitably break through. It’s extremely common for break throughs to occur near walkways, driveways, patios, rock walls. Crabgrass germinates with warm soil temperatures the heat of the sun beating down on your driveway, walkway, or other paved/stone areas will heat up the soil around those areas which will encourage crabgrass break throughs. Also, crabgrass pre-emergent controls start to deteriorate when soil temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit, meaning there is no longer a barrier to protect against a break through. Thin areas and bare spots are also prime for crabgrass break through as there is nothing to shade or protect the soil from the sun, which increases soil temps and causes crabgrass break throughs.

Q: Is Grub Control part of your lawn care program?

A: Grub control is an optional service that can be added onto your program. We strongly recommend grub control to protect your lawn from the damage from grubs. We guarantee our grub control service so if your lawn gets any damage from grubs we will repair the damage free of charge.

Q: How do grubs damage the lawn? Is the damage permanent or will it fix itself on its own?

A: Grubs feed on the root system of the lawn. If the grubs eat up to the crown of the root (where the roots grow down from) then the damage is permanent, and the area must be reseeded. The first signs of grub damage are simply browning of the lawn due to restricted access to water due to the reduction in the root system from the feeding of the grubs. Once grubs get to the crown of the root the grass becomes very loose. It will peel away from the soil since there is no longer any root system holding it in place.

Q: What is the difference between the Premium Organic Program and the Optimized Organic Program?

A: The Premium Organic Program is a fully organic program and the Optimized Organic Program is a hybrid program using Organic Fertilizers and traditional low risk weed controls. Because the Premium Organic Program does not have post emergent crabgrass control, the lawn should be aerated and overseeded to reduce crabgrass outbreaks. The thicker and healthier the lawn is, the less crabgrass your lawn will get.

Q: Are the products you use safe for my children/pets?

A: We are committed to using the safest and most effective products on the market. (EPA registered Low risk) Please follow re-entry instructions to minimize exposure. (see question below)

Q: How long should I keep pets, children, and myself off the lawn after a treatment?

A: You’ll want to wait till the lawn has dried from the weed control treatments before you start to use the lawn again. On a Premium Organic Program there is no safety risk of re-entering the property before it has dried from the application. However, some of our weed control is iron-based and when wet can cause some rust color staining to clothing including shoes. Typically, the lawn will dry within an hour or two, depending on weather and temperatures.

Q: Should I mow, before or after the treatment?

A: Mowing immediately before a treatment takes place can reduce the effectiveness of the weed control application since mowing will reduce the surface area of the weeds. If the lawn has not been mowed there will be more surface area to apply the weed controls to meaning the weeds will take in more control product and that typically results in a better weed control application. We recommend waiting to mow till 24-48 hours after a treatment. Giving it time before you mow ensures you don’t cut the weed control that a plant has absorbed out of it before it gets into the root system so that the whole plant is controlled.

Q: Will you do a pH test of my soil? / Is limestone part of your program?

A: We will do a pH test on the first application of each year, we will recommend limestone based on your soils pH levels after they have been tested. Limestone is an optional service as there are times/circumstances where limestone should not be applied. For example, if you have an alkaline lawn (7.1 or higher) you don’t want to apply limestone as you want the soil to be slightly acidic.

Q: Will my lawn be green and weed free all season?

A: It’s unlikely that you will ever have a perfectly weed free lawn, weeds are a natural part of lawn care. The goal is to minimize the weeds as much as possible. Weather conditions will play a significant role in the color of the lawn, you could be watering and mowing perfectly, and we could be fertilizing perfectly, and the lawn might not be green due to excessive temperatures causing heat stress which will turn the lawn brown. By setting proper expectations I hope to build your trust and faith in our services, if any company promises you a perfectly green and weed free lawn all year long, they have lied to you.

Q: How should I mow my lawn?

A: The lawn should be mowed on a regular basis, with a sharp mower blade to avoid mower stress, also mowed during the cool parts of the day. Never remove more than 1/3 of the blade of grass with a mowing as you can cause stress to the plant and browning by removing more than 1/3 of the blade of grass in a single cut. Mow the lawn on the tallest setting of your mower. The longer the blade of the grass during the summer time the greener it will be. The plant stores its energy in the blade of the grass, so it will have more energy reserves when tall. Also, the blade of the grass is how the plant conducts photosynthesis acting essentially as a solar panel, the larger the blade of grass the better it can conduct photosynthesis.

Q: How should I water my lawn?

A: Watering should be deep and infrequent. Do not water every day. Water in early morning to reduce chances of disease outbreak. Watering system should complete its cycle around the time that morning dew would natural dry. Watering at night will increase disease outbreak risk. Deep and infrequent watering will encourage a deep root system with access to natural ground water. A lawn that is watered every day will have a shallow root system and will become dependent on your watering. Think of the old saying “give a man a fish and he will eat for the day, teach a man to fish and he will eat for a lifetime.” Each time we water the lawn it is like we are “giving it a fish” and the more frequently we do this the more dependent on our watering the lawn will become. General rule of thumb is 1 inch of water per week in spring and fall and 2-3 inches of water per week in summer time. Use rain gage or catch cup and stopwatch to measure/time how long it takes for system to output 1 inch of water, break that up into 3 watering cycles per week.

Q: Should I de-thatch my lawn before you start your applications?

A: We don’t recommend de-thatching, aerating the lawn is a much better way to deal with excessive thatch. Thatching can open thin areas of the lawn or create thin areas by pulling out healthy grass. These thin areas will be prime real estate for weeds and crabgrass to enter your lawn. Thatch is a beneficial and protective layer for our lawns. The thatch layer protects the root system from harsh weather conditions, both hot and cold. It also helps prevent weeds. Thatch is only a problem if there is too much or too little, a healthy thatch layer is ½ inch to 1 inch. Dethatching removes the entire layer while aeration will chop up the thatch layer helping it to decompose faster and increases microbial life in the soil that will help decompose the thatch layer as well.

Q: When can I seed my lawn?

A: Fall is the best time to seed as it will give your lawn the most amount of time to mature before hot summer weather which is more detrimental to our grass types than the winter weather. The root system only grows in spring and fall, summer seeding is typically a waste of time and money. If you must seed in the spring, please wait till after our 1st application of the year has been completed. On the 1st application of the year we will be applying a crabgrass control and broadleaf weed control, this application could kill any immature grass that you have planted before the 1st application. If you wait till after the 1st application and you can seed the lawn. We recommend fall seeding as well if spring seeding takes place.